Common 3D Print Problems

How to Fix Warping, Stringing & Other Common 3D Print Problems

One of the best things about 3D printing is watching your ideas come to life layer by layer.
But let’s be honest: sometimes the results don’t match what you imagined. Prints peel off the bed, stringy webs appear between parts, or your layers look messy. Don’t worry, these problems happen to everyone, and usually there’s a simple way to fix them. Luckily, with modern printers, a lot come with built-in calibration and settings to help prevent the below issues, but reality sometimes has different plans!

In this guide, we’ll cover the most common 3D print issues and simple fixes you can try today.

Problem #1: Warping (Corners Lifting from the Bed)

What it looks like:

  • Print corners peel upward

  • Parts detach from the bed mid-print

  • Large prints warp more than small ones

Why does it happen:
Warping occurs when plastic cools unevenly — the bottom layers shrink and lift up off the bed. PLA warps less, while ABS and Nylon warp a lot.

Fixes:
-Use a heated bed (keep PLA ~60°C, PETG ~70°C, ABS ~100°C, your filament might give you the best temp!)
-Add a brim or raft in slicer settings
-Use adhesives (glue stick, hairspray, PEI sheet, painter’s tape)
-Enclose your printer, especially for ABS/ASA (Top tip, indoor plant grow tents are great for this!)
-Reduce fan speed for first layers

Problem #2: Stringing (Thin Strands Between Parts)

What it looks like:

  • Fine, spiderweb-like strings between parts

  • Happens when the nozzle travels over gaps

Why does it happen?

-Melted filament leaks from the nozzle during travel moves.

Fixes:
-Enable retraction in slicer (start with 1–2 mm at 30–50 mm/s)
-Lower nozzle temperature (too hot = oozing)
-Increase travel speed (faster moves = less dripping)
-Dry your filament (moisture makes stringing worse)

Problem #3: Poor Bed Adhesion

What it looks like:

  • Print won’t stick to the bed at all

  • First layer drags, curls, or detaches

Why does it happen?

-Bed not leveled (the internet will be quick to tell you to check this!), surface dirt, or first layer settings off.

Fixes:
-Level your bed carefully (use the paper method* or auto bed leveling)
-Clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol
-Adjust nozzle height (first layer should be slightly squished)
-Slow first layer speed (20–30 mm/s)
-Increase first layer height & width in slicer

*The paper method is where you set a piece of paper on the build plate, slowly lower the z-axis to the point where you can still move the piece of paper but feel some resistance due to contact with the nozzle. Make sure to try this at multiple locations of the build plate!

Problem #4: Under-Extrusion (Gaps in Walls & Layers)

What it looks like:

  • Incomplete walls

  • Gaps between lines

  • Weak, brittle prints

Why does it happen?

-Printer isn’t pushing enough filament.

Fixes:
-Check nozzle for clogs (clean or replace if needed)
-Increase print temperature slightly (helps flow)
-Adjust extrusion multiplier/flow rate in slicer
-Check filament diameter matches slicer setting (1.75 mm vs 3 mm)
-Make sure your extruder gears are clean & gripping filament

Problem #5: Over-Extrusion (Blobs & Rough Surfaces)

What it looks like:

  • Too much filament → blobs, zits, rough walls

  • Dimensional inaccuracy

Why does it happen?
-Printer pushes out more filament than needed.

Fixes:
-Lower flow rate (start with 95–98%)
-Lower print temperature slightly
-Calibrate your extruder steps/mm (advanced, but worth it)
-Check slicer settings (wall overlaps, extrusion width)

Problem #6: Layer Shifting

What it looks like:

  • Layers don’t align properly

  • Print looks “slid” to one side

Why does it happen?
-Stepper motors skip steps due to loose belts, collisions, or speed issues.

Fixes:
-Tighten X/Y belts (if you have belts, you might have rods!)
-Reduce print speed
-Check for loose pulleys & screws
-Make sure nothing bumps into your printer mid-print

MAKE SURE YOU’RE PRINTING ON A STABLE PLATFORM! NOT A WOBBLY CHAIR!

Problem #7: Z-Banding (Horizontal Lines in Print)

What it looks like:

  • Repeating horizontal lines in walls

  • Inconsistent layer height

Why does it happen?
-Z-axis wobble or inconsistent extrusion.

Fixes:
-Ensure Z-rod is straight & greased
-Check couplers & leadscrews for looseness
-Lower layer height (0.2 mm or less helps)
-Improve bed leveling consistency

Problem #8: Layer Separation / Delamination

What it looks like:

  • Layers split apart

  • Weak prints that snap easily

Why does it happen?
-Layers aren’t bonding due to low heat or drafts.

Fixes:
-Increase print temperature
-Reduce cooling fan speed
-Use an enclosure for ABS/ASA
-Print slower to allow better bonding

Problem #9: Elephant’s Foot (Bottom Layer Squished Outward)

What it looks like:

  • First layer bulges outward

  • Part bottom is wider than the top

Why does it happen?
-Bed too hot, nozzle too close, or over-squished first layer.

Fixes:
-Raise the nozzle slightly
-Lower bed temperature slightly after the first few layers
-Add a chamfer (beveled edge) in the design or slicer

Problem #10: Clogged Nozzle

What it looks like:

  • No filament comes out

  • Extruder grinds filament

Why does it happen?
-Dust, burnt filament, or mixed materials block the nozzle.

Fixes:
-Cold pull (using nylon or cleaning filament)
-Heat & clean with a needle
-Replace the nozzle if badly blocked
-Always purge old filament before switching materials

Tips to Avoid Problems Altogether

  • Keep your printer clean & lubricated

  • Store filament in airtight containers with silica gel

  • Always slice with the right material profile

  • Do regular calibration prints (cube, Benchy, temperature tower)

  • Print slow & simple until your machine is tuned

Wrapping Up

3D printing problems are normal and can be fixed. Each failed print is a lesson that brings you closer to perfect results.
The more you print, the more you’ll recognize the signs of stringing, warping, or under-extrusion and know exactly how to fix them.

So next time your Benchy looks a little funky, don’t panic. Grab this checklist, make a quick tweak, and you’ll be back on track in no time.

My final tip would be to download Orca Studio as your slicer as that has some excellent built-in calibration models!

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